Wiksten + Scout

My first Grainline Scout Tee!  I have had this pattern for a while, but sometimes it takes a little extra motivation to get started…when I saw that Nettie from Sown Brooklyn was doing a sew along on Kollabora I jumped at the chance. DSC_0012I bought this fabric from the Wiksten’s Spoonflower shop- it is a cotton silk and I really like it. It is super soft and satiny, and you can wash and dry it, no problems!  The color has faded a bit, but I have read that is common with Spoonflower fabrics.  I intentionally bought a print that I wouldn’t mind a faded look with.DSC_0068I am wearing it with my Moss Skirt (blogged here).  I figured I would go for the total Grainline outfit!  After looking at these photos I realize I am fully representing Chicago…my earrings are from the lovely Merl at Clyde’s Rebirth, my shoes are from Mohop, and of course the patterns for my top and skirt are Grainline- all handmade in Chicago!DSC_0006All right, now for the details…I like the pattern a lot, and I will totally make more.  I did have to make a few changes to get a good fit- I lowered the armhole by 1/2 “, lengthened the sleeve 1/2″, shortened the body by 1”, and took about an inch out of the width of the front to adjust for my small bust. Yeah, that happens after you have kids. (or at least it happened to me) The muslin felt great, but in this version there is some slight pulling across the back, and I was hoping some of you fit gurus (Lisa G) out there might know where to make an adjustment for that on the next one…I feel like it is pretty roomy back there but at times there is some pulling that seems to come directly from the armpit area. DSC_0045See? Pretty roomy back there.

As I was reading other blogs I saw some comments that people would like to see more close up details, and pictures of the insides of garments.  Is this something you all would be interested in?  I thought I would give it a try and if you like it I will keep it up.  I do try to make them pretty on the insides too 🙂DSC_0104DSC_0106DSC_0110I did a narrow 1/4 hem for the sleeves and bottom hem- the method I use is to sew a basting stitch at 1/4″ for the first fold, press it, then fold another 1/4″ and press, then sew.  If it is a curved hem I will sew two 1/4″ lines to make sure I get a nice smooth curve, then pull out the second row of basting stitches after it’s all done.  There is a great tutorial on this here.  It bothers me a little that I forgot to switch my bobbin thread back to the coral color after sewing the neckline, but oh wellzzz.DSC_0095I serged the seams to finish them- I debated using french seams, but this fabric is a little more robust than you would think, and I ended up deciding serged seams would lay nicer.  And there may have been a little lazy in there.  But I am happy with how it looks.  I made bias strips from a cream colored voile that I had in my stash, using this masking tape method.  (Have you tried it?  So perfectly easy!!)  DSC_0102And hey!  I joined Instagram, better late than never!  I am trying to post pictures of what I am working on in between blog posts…you’ll probably get details there that I will have forgotten by the time they make it to the blog, hehe.  It’s a little like childbirth, by the time I get here to the end result I don’t remember all the nitty gritty details- I’m just happy to have a healthy baby!  You can find me here: @cutcutsew

DSC_0089Hope to see you there!

  • haha fit guru… my best guess would be that you need a forward shoulder adjustment. i think it’s the shoulder pulling forward causing the underarm to be tight. i often need to make the same adjustment! so essentially you need to move the sleeve cap forward and also move the shoulder seam forward at the outer edge. instead of re-drafting the sleeve, you can simply adjust where the under arm seam sits, by taking the same amount you moved the shoulder seam by, off the front side and adding it to the other side. ugh, that sounds so confusing… i’ll instagram a pic!

    i totally love this shirt, and i finally have the perfect fabric to make one also! haha great minds think alike!

    • one more thought… i know the bust shaping is incorporated into the arm scythe curve, so removing width for a smaller bust may also contribute to the pulling.

      • Kelly

        Hmmm…food for thought! On the first muslin I did the armholes were crazy high and it pulled a bunch at the back (hadn’t taken any width out of the front yet). I think it is something in the armhole, just need to figure out what! Maybe I will try extending the under arm area on the back piece by a bit. The shoulder seam is already pretty forward as is (so much that I almost moved it back!) I thought this pattern would be such an easy fit….ha! The pulling is not really that noticeable even, but I am crazy sensitive when it comes to comfort in my clothes.

        • it could be that the shoulder seam just sits forward, i would check that it is parallel to that imaginary line from your neck to the center of your shoulder. i know i saw somewhere how to eliminate a dart and transfer it into the arm hole, so maybe knowing how that’s done would help. and darn it… i better muslin mine when i get to making it!

          • Kelly

            I think it’s just me- I haven’t really seen anyone else having problems with it other than the armhole being tight 🙂 When you do make it I want the deets!

  • Thanks for showing us the very clean innards of this gorgeous make. I’m usually trying to hide some average sewing with distance shots 🙂 Loving your Chicago look – you can’t go wrong with all that talent and this is one great look.

    • Kelly

      Haha, the distance shots are good sometimes 😉

  • So cool!! I love that fabric! I think you made a great choice as far as still looking great once faded.

    I think you can’t go wrong with a Grainline look! I don’t have the Moss skirt pattern, but there have been so many great versions lately. Yours is one of my favorites!

    • Kelly

      Nettie, I can’t believe you don’t have the Moss pattern! It would look great on you! And thank you for the compliment 🙂

  • I love this fabric , it’s been on my wish list for ages! It’s perfect for this style of top and you have made yours so beautifully 🙂 I love your moss skirt too, I just purchased this one, did you find the fit true to size?

    • Kelly

      Thank you so much! With the Moss skirt- I measured a size 2 in the hips and a size 4 in the waist, and I made the 4. I have seen a few people on the interwebs who felt it was a tight fit, so you may want to go up one size from your hip measurement. If you are using a fabric with some stretch to it you would probably be fine with whatever size you measure, I think. My first one has no stretch and fits perfect, this one is a fairly stretchy denim and I could have probably gone down to the size 2. Of course your best bet is to make a muslin first to check the size 🙂 Hope that helps!

  • Lovely! So Chicago chic 🙂 The fabric is GORGE! I’ve lusted over that Wiksten silk/cotton on Spoonflower before but can’t bring myself to pull the trigger. I’ll probably go for some Kauffman Radiance instead.

    • Kelly

      I know, it is definitely on the spendy side of things! I think I would have been just as happy with the voile to be honest, not that it is much cheaper!

  • Beautiful! I love the fabric – the colour and print, it looks lovely and breezy. Thanks for the inside and detail shots too, though your beautifully tidy finishes put me to shame..

    • Kelly

      Thank you so much! I have had a vision of this top for a while, I am glad I finally made it 🙂 You have been making some very cool stuff, I love your space dress!

  • Very cute top! I know lots of folks who really like the scout tee. You did such a lovely job on your serged seams! They look so perfectly straight, mine never come out like that. Maybe why I don’t usually post inside out pics of my garments. 🙂

    • Kelly

      Thank you! Haha…lots of practice, and lots of crooked seams to get to this point 😉

  • How does everything you make turn our so fantastic?
    Are you one of those incredibly patient people who actually make muslins? Oh, how I wish I were like you!!
    You’re my muse 🙂

    • Kelly

      Hahaha…I do make muslins for most things- I like knowing when I cut into my good fabric that it will fit! But the muslins go quick- no hems or seam finishes, use a long basting stitch…and I don’t do details like pockets or collars. I love your lace Maritime shorts, I think those may be my next project after some pants I am working on now (after THREE muslins I am finally ready to sew some pants, ha!)

  • This is beautiful Kelly! I love that cream bias strip for the neckline, it makes it look really professional looking and just nice and crisp. I also love that fabric you used. I’ve been wanting to order fabric from that same exact Spoonflower designer as well- I love her arrow print fabric. I hadn’t heard that about the fabric fading though, 🙁 that’s a bummer.

    • Kelly

      Thanks Haylee! I think the fading is more of a concern with the darker colors, in these pictures the fabric has been washed 4 or 5 times, and it did fade a little but I don’t mind it on this design. If you look at your arrow print fabric, her project photos show it after it has been washed and dried and it looks more gray than black- but again, I think it still looks very cool. But definitely something you want to know ahead of time when spending that much on fabric! Love your blog, you make some really lovely things!

  • This is gorgeous fabric, and it’s such a great combination with the Moss skirt! I also had to lower the armohole a bit, just a cm or 2 though so although I have ever so slight pulling it’s not too bad. Your photos are always so good as well – that last photo is amazing, your surrounding are very cooperative in colour co-ordinating for you!

    • Kelly

      Thanks Kathryn! The pulling is very slight, not really enough to bother me much but I will try to fix it for the next one…The place where I took these photos is very cool, it is a pop-up community market and event space comprised of shipping containers and other creative reuse structures like a beer bar made out of wood pallets (that’s actually what I am sitting on in that last pic). I was there in the morning so they were all closed up. A smart idea though, and a great attempt to revitalize a run down area of town.

  • It looks so good! Your sewing is impeccable. So fun to see a top made up in my fabric.

    • Kelly

      Thank you so much Jenny! I loved all the prints, it was hard to pick just one 🙂

  • I adore this print and thanks for the tip about Spoonflower fabrics fading…. Your tee is great!

  • Your Scout looks awesome, especially with your Moss skirt! And I think that fabric was totally worth it. I haven’t tried the masking tape method for making bias tape. Did pulling the tape off stretch the tape out at all? (Probably not, because your neckline binding looks perfect!)

    • Kelly

      Thanks Morgan! I would probably be adding more of her prints to my stash if I hadn’t banned myself from buying more fabric 😉 I haven’t had the tape stretch any of the fabric out that I have tried this on yet, although I am sure there are some fabrics out there that you would want to be careful with.

  • I have been fawning over that pattern, that fabric, and then – like some mind-reading sewing goddess – you go ahead and combine them. Genius! Oh, and I love inside pictures because I am a big ol’ snoop x

    • Kelly

      Hahaha, thanks! Get some of this fabric! I love it, I want more of her prints but I must resist…

  • What a beautiful top, inside and out! It looks great with your Moss skirt. Nice fabric choice, too.

    • Kelly

      Thanks Becca!

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  • I’ve made this top a couple of times and have had the same problem with pulling across the back. I’ve did a few adjustments but nothing has seemed to help. Was wondering if you’ve had any luck finding a solution. ??

    • Kelly

      Hi Shanni! I added to the armhole (at the underarm) on the back piece, about 1/2″ I think? And then subtracted the same amount from the front piece. (basically moved the side seam forward at the armpit, giving a bit more room in the back) It seems to have worked, but the versions I have made since the adjustment all have a bit of stretch so it is hard to know for sure! Good luck!

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