Military Style Sewaholic Minoru Jacket

I would like to introduce you to my new favorite jacket, a military style Sewaholic Minoru!  I actually finished this in December right before Christmas, and I have worn it just about every day since then 🙂  The main fabric is a cotton/lycra twill from Mood, and it is amazingly soft, doesn’t wrinkle, and a dream to wear.DSC_0209*This outfit is all handmade!  Minoru jacket,  Archer button up, Scout lace tee, Jamie jeans.  Necklace from Native Clutter.

I made quite a few changes to the original pattern- not that it needed to be changed, in fact I would love to make another one according to the pattern.  I just kept seeing these military style jackets everywhere (like this one) and I thought it would be a perfect pattern to copy that look.  DSC_0222 (1)Soooooooooo…..changes!  I’m going to give you the list here, and if you would like more details you can ask me in the comments, OK?  I’m just not good at documenting this stuff along the way- when I am working it is a flurry of activity that can’t be interrupted by taking pictures 😉

*Removed 1 1/2″ off the height of the collar

*Narrowed the plackets where the zipper is attached, and added flaps to cover the zipper.  DSC_0232 (1)

*Added bellows pockets to the front, omitted the inner pocket.

*Used a drawstring to cinch the waist instead of elasticDSC_0235 (1)

*Reduced the flare on the bottom half for a more straight silhouette

*Changed the bottom half of the sleeve to an Archer sleeve, instead of elastic cuffs.DSC_0203

I used metal ring snaps throughout, and found out they are a @$%! to put in…I had to buy a tool to use, and hammer them in.  It took quite a few practice attempts and I almost gave up on them entirely, but I eventually got the hang of it and it went OK.  Although now I kind of wish I would have used buttons instead.  That has been my story with this jacket- I pretty much have second guessed every single detail…DSC_0242 (1)The lining is Bridgetown by Violet Craft, which is a quilting cotton and probably not the best fabric for lining a jacket.  But I loved it so much I did it anyway 😉  I lined the sleeves in a grey Bemberg rayon from my stash- lining the sleeves in a slippery fabric makes it easy to get it off and on.  DSC_0196 (1)DSC_0219 (1)Despite being all angsty about the details of this jacket, it is one of my favorite makes ever.  I feel all happy to be able to wear a completely hand made outfit, including my outerwear.  One of the good things about making a jacket is that you can wear it every day without anyone giving you the side eye.  I highly recommend the Minoru pattern, and Tasia did a sew along on her site that helped me sooooo much.  I have another jacket in the works, a Republique du Chiffon Gerard.  I am pretty much on my own with that one….

  • Wow! This is the most amazing Minoru yet! I love the subtle changes you made to the pattern I am completely inspired! Thank you.

    • Kelly

      That is so nice, thank you!!

  • Whoa! Snaps! Big pocket with flaps!)! Drawstring! With little metal drawstring tab bead thingies, toggles? What are those called? Because I want them on everything now. Also love the cuff change and the addition of the flap over the zipper. Basically this is the best ever. Oh and I much prefer your pockets now compared to the side seam or welt version adaptations. No need to mess with the pattern pieces and those pockets look extra roomy. Ok enough gushing…

    • Kelly

      haha, thanks for the gushing 🙂 I did research at the mall and took lots of pics on my phone…but when I had to try and find all those different metal thingys I had no idea what they were called, so it was hard to Google them! End caps? Cord stops? Grommets?

  • You are on fire. I cannot get over this. What amazing sewing skills you have! Already knew it, but wow, this just blows it away.

    • Kelly

      oh you are too nice, thanks 🙂

  • Favorite Minoru ever — absolutely fabulous!

    • Kelly

      Thank you so much!!

  • I adore this jacket. Amazing job! Just be warned — I am totally stealing this idea!!!

    • Kelly

      Do it! I am all for copying- that’s all I did here, copy the RTW jackets from the mall…

  • Oh the Minoru! I keep seeing all these great versions. I LOVE your military style one. The zipper flaps and metal snaps are a great idea and I think turns it into a very professional make. But yours just simply looks great!

    • Kelly

      The Minoru is a great pattern, I was super impressed by it. Actually all of the Sewaholic patterns I have used have been great!

  • This jacket is an absolute beauty. I, too, have been eyeing that style jacket, and you did an absolutely amazing job!

    • Kelly


  • I am just BLOWN away by this jacket. Seriously. WOW!

    • Kelly

      Awwwww, thanks Kirsty!!

  • That is amazing, it looks incredibly professional! Great job!

    • Kelly

      Thank you 🙂

  • Shelley

    You are one skillful sewist. Amazing.

    • Kelly

      thank you so much!

  • Wow ! Amazing result !
    I really can’t wait for the day my sewing skills let me try this pattern !!!
    Congratualtion 🙂

    • Kelly

      Oh you could totally do it! It’s a great pattern, and the detailed sew along that Tasia did makes it really accessible for any skill level.

  • I LOVE this jacket. I can’t wait for winter in Australia – But it is so sweltering hot here right now!!

    • Kelly

      There are a few more jackets I want to make this winter- makes it bearable for me even though I much prefer summer 🙂

  • This is gobsmackingly amazing! Wow, all the adjustments you made that just look perfect and the workman(woman)ship is just impeccable. Wow, wow, wow! And to have an entirely me-made outfit is tres excellent!

    • Kelly

      Thank you, that is very nice!!

  • You are making me want to buy the Minoru again!! I don’t know if I really need it because, Southern Cal is going through a drought-like phase and who knows if we’ll get a real winter this year… Congrats on the lovely jacket 🙂

    • Kelly

      Ha, yeah we were in LA just after Christmas and it was gorgeous….but definitely felt like summer, not winter!!

  • Wowza! I’m blown away by this, it’s just amazing. I would never have thought the Minoru could be adapted into something like this. I love every change you made better than the original. Great job!

    • Kelly

      Thanks Katie!!

  • this turned out so great!! i love every detail. i hear ya about agonizing over every little thing, it can be paralyzing… and i love that your whole outfit is hand made. well done!!

    • Kelly

      I don’t even know how much time I spent poring over different little metal bits on the internet…gathering up the supplies took longer than making the jacket!

  • Amazing! Love this and love all the changes you made to it. You have some mad skills!

    • Kelly

      Thanks Margo! 🙂

  • So professional ~ I’m so impressed!

    • Kelly


  • Tatiana

    I loved your jacket! I love this military style, this is a perfect jacket for me! I am going to sew a zippered jacket as well, and I would love to know how did you add the flaps to cover the zipper? Thanks a lot for your help!

    • Kelly

      So, with this pattern there is already a separate zipper placket that you sew onto the body of the jacket…I made the flaps and sewed them to the jacket at the same time that I sewed the zipper placket on. When you lay it out to sew you would have the jacket front (right side up) then the flap (right side down) and then the zipper placket (right side down). After you sew the seam flip the zipper placket and flap towards the center, and press the seam allowances towards the body of the jacket and topstitch if you wish. If your pattern doesn’t have the separate zipper placket you could cut the pattern at 1 or 1 1/2 inches away from the zipper, add seam allowances to both sides and sew as described above. Hope that isn’t totally confusing!! If you have a RTW jacket that has flaps like that you can see how it is constructed, that is how I figured it out…

  • Wow!This is really an exceptional sewing project! It must have taken you forever! Everything looks so perfect. Wow again!

    • Kelly

      Thank you!! You know it wasn’t so bad…2 weeks maybe? And that is just working on it in the evenings. The Minoru pattern as written would come together pretty quick, it was just the changes that took me a while longer 🙂

  • Absolutely perfect! It looks so RTW!!!

    • Kelly

      Thank you!

  • I am in love with this jacket that you made! I just love military green type jackets, and what you have done here is perfect.! You should be very proud of your me made outfit, it all looks so stylish and well made. I stumbled through making a Gerard with the French pattern, now that the English instructions are out I am afraid I can’t be much help to you. I resorted to a bagged lining, and it worked out pretty well for me.

    • Kelly

      Thanks!! Your Gerard is awesome…I have to say even with the translation it is pretty intimidating. A lot of it is still in French, she didn’t translate the pattern pieces or diagrams. I think I am going to do what you did and use other instructions on line…I have some new lining fabric and interfacing coming in the mail but I am getting started on a muslin right now 🙂

  • Katie

    It looks amazing! And the entirely handmade outfit is really inspiring.

    • Kelly

      Thanks Katie!

  • This is an amazing jacket, I love all the changes you made to the pattern. Stunning!

    • Kelly

      Thank you so much!

  • Wow, your jacket looks fantastic! I especially like the flaps you added to cover the zipper. The exposed zipper is one thing I don’t like about the original pattern and you took care of that with flying colors! Super job!

  • Perfect, I love everything about this jacket! You may have just inspired me to make another.

  • Ooh, I love it! I’ve been daydreaming about making a military-style Minoru since I made my first (and so far only) one, and I love every detail about this one. So fantastic!

  • Sarah Jo

    Incredible jacket! There is no angst evident in the final product. How awesome that you can take a look and adapt a pattern to create just what you’re looking for! My mind is blown!

  • Holy professional jacket, a’hoy! THAT garment is incredible and one of the most ‘non homemade’ looking creations I’ve ever seen. Seriously, I would buy that from a store. Before I went O/S I was working on a Minoru, and then I realised I was rushing it so I stopped. Now looking at yours I’m so glad I stopped when I did, because that thing is incredible and all I would have been able to do was hang my little head in shame.

    • Kelly

      Awwwww, thanks lady! I am sure your jacket will be awesome, but definitely better not to rush it. I was getting a little tired of this one towards the end, and it could probably have benefitted from a break…but we were taking a trip and I really wanted to bring it. Can’t wait to see your Minoru!

  • Meg @ Mood

    You did an amazing job with this jacket! So glad you chose our fabric!

    • Kelly

      Thanks so much! The fabric is awesome, just perfect for my jacket 🙂

  • Wow!! Best Minoru ever. I love the placket flaps and the hardware you chose takes this coat to the next level!

  • WOAH Kelly, WOAH! You did an incredible job on this jacket!! The details are amazing and it looks super high end. You’ve outdone yourself. And yes, in our climate I bet you’ll get tons of use out of this jacket!

  • What a terrific jacket. It looks so professionally done, I’m really in awe. And your whole outfit is you made and looks great! I soldier on in my sewing in order to be able to one day create an outfit like this.

    • Kelly

      Oh you can totally do it! I try to have no fear when it comes to sewing- I’ll try anything 🙂 Google is my friend, I am always looking up how to do stuff!

  • Amy

    I love it! In fact, I have a very similar jacket planned as one of my post-maternity makes. Glad to see the pattern fits the style as well as I’d hoped!

  • A-M-A-Z-I-N-G! This is the best ever Minoru, it looks like the real hardy winter coat. All the alterations you’ve done just all go together and nothing looks out of place. I LOVE it!!! I do like your lining as well and think that was the right decision, I’m sure it will add a touch of warmth to the jacket. LOVE! LOVE! LOVE!

    • Kelly

      I think you are right, I was wishing I had picked something slippery but it is definitely a little warmer this way.

  • I seriously take my hat off to you!
    This is fantastic. The touches and details are great and I love the lining.
    I did think I might make this myself but I got stuck half way through the Sewaholic Robson Trench coat and until that is complete I can’t justify starting another jacket.

  • Again, SOOOO good! Seriously jealous of this one. All the modifications you made are right on, and I think the snaps were worth it!
    I may be making use of that Mood link in the near future. 🙂

  • Holy Smokes!!!! This is THE best Minoru I’ve ever seen. I love it so much from the flaps that conceal the zipper to the eyelet/drawstring waist. Amazing job! Looks great on you and so glad you’ve gotten a lot of wear out of it already.

  • Wow, this jacket is incredible! It’s really fun to see all the different ideas people have for this pattern. I’ve seen so many incredible variations, and yours is no exception!

  • this is so so good Kelly. Stunning really. And you chose the perfect perfect fabrics, so gorgeous! Of course your sewing is impeccable, too! beautiful!

  • THIS IS AWESOME! I really like your modifications! Will definitely be referring back to this when I make mine sometime this spring! (Hopefully…. 😉

  • GIRL, this looks GREAT! I love it! It’s absolutely fantastic! I laughed a little when I saw this post because I just finished up a similar (but not nearly as beautiful) jacket. I guess we were on the same wavelength a little bit! Seriously, great job! This looks amazing!

    • Kelly

      Thanks so much! I saw yours, it looks great! I was wishing mine was a little more minimal, I feel like I went a little crazy with all the hardware, hehe. I love your idea to use the jeans buttons too!

  • nothing much more to say than: WOW! and WOW!

  • I know it’s been said but this is just the best Minoru ever! Oh that I had your sewing skills. Amazing!

  • Pingback: Ginger Made: Style Arc Romy Anorak (Or, the Jacket that Took Forever)! | Ginger Makes...()

  • what a wonderful jacket, I got half way through making a Minoru and struck (sizing) disaster, but it is a wonderful pattern and I still plan on giving it another go one day. This is inspiring for my next fabric choice!

  • Oh. My. Goodness! This is the most gorgeous… I have no words. I love the adjustments you’ve made, especially the way you adapted the Arched sleeves: Smashing!!!

  • Okay, now this is a testament that handmade garments can look chic. Ultra chic. Ultra f***king chic. I love every single alteration you made. Can’t wait to see the next jacket you’re making.

    • Kelly

      thanks Maddie!! That means a lot to me. My goal with sewing lately has been to make stylish clothes that don’t *look* handmade (not that there’s anything wrong with that). But I want to do more than just sew, I want to be my own fashion designer, haha. Sewing is my passion and I think about it constantly. I am not always able to fulfill my vision, but every now and then it all works out 🙂

  • This is my most favorite Minoru ever. It’s so classic and stylish and perfectly executed. Thanks for including all of the modification notes, too!

    • Kelly

      Thank you Stephanie!

  • Kelly
    Great Job! Does this officially make you a sewing rockstar??? I bet it is a joy to wear such a well put together garment! You’re always inspiring!! Also just an fyi I am blogging more consistently now at a blog I’m sharing with a friend, its Congrats on the minoru!

    • Kelly

      Haha, thanks!! I am going to check out your new blog now, it would be nice to have someone to share in the bloggy duties!

  • Gorgeous jacket !

  • Pingback: PR&P season 3 reunion: nanook of the northwest | skirt as top()

  • Sam

    Wow, this is amazing! You’ve turned this pattern into the jacket I really, really want to make.

  • Wow! This is so amazing. That jacket is perfection.

  • okay kelly, you’re officially my sewing hero. this jacket is unbelievable!

  • The coat looks awesome! I’m so impressed!

  • Deb

    Love, love this jacket. I am not good enough to make the changes that you did. Have you thought about making a pattern like this one. I’d purchase it right away if it was available. A perfect jacket/coat. You are incredibly talented.

  • Pingback: vintage may guest: cut cut sew | skirt as top()

  • Pingback: Minoru Jacket | Ms. Cleaver Chronicles()

  • Pingback: Five Things of Intrigue | Thread Theory()

  • Pingback: selfish sewing week: fall transition sewing patterns - imagine gnats()

  • Pingback: Minoru Jacket – The Pattern That Changed My Life | Helen's ClosetHelen's Closet()

  • Pingback: Outfitting the Rebel Alliance | Liz: Distracted()